'Eua

I had the opportunity to spend last weekend visiting two volunteers on the outer island of 'Eua. I'm glad I waited until almost two years into my service because it reminded me of a cross between Vava'u and Northern Wisconsin (home) and thus made me a little homesick.

To get to 'Eua I jumped on a 3-hour (so much better than a 24 hour boat ride!) ferry with three other volunteers and two Tongan friends (Michael, Tynesha, Joey, Hepi and Samu), took some motion sickness pills and fell asleep under a large fleece blanket.

Chiara and Katy were waiting for us at the warf when we arrived. They were such wonderful hosts. We shared stories, cooked meals together, caught up and enjoyed each other's company.

A little bit about 'Eua: 'Eua is covered in lush rainforest (which isn't very Wisconsin-y), but there are also pine trees and hilly and beautiful fields (which is the part that reminded me of home). Both rugged and breathtakingly beautiful, this island paradise has many beaches, rocky cliffs and trails for trekking.

'Eua is the oldest island in the Kingdom of Tonga and is the place where the Polynesian god Maui supposedly stood when he fished the other 175 islands of Tonga out of the depths of the great Pacific Ocean.

We spent an afternoon hiking Fangatave (cliffs and beach). At one point I scaled a 20-foot cliff and free climbed using ropes that were tied into the side of giant volcanic rocks. It was an exciting and relaxing way to spend a few days before our COS (Close of Service) Conference began on Tongatapu (the main island in Tonga). 

Culture

A nation's culture resides in the hearts and in the souls of its people.

- Mahatma Gandhi

Tongan Culture 101: Showing Love

When I was little I knew my mom loved me. I knew it because she'd tell me it every day (and still does!), but I also knew it because of what she would do for me, my sister and my brother. 

She hugged and kissed us, did our laundry, she sometimes (okay, most times...) made our beds, she wiped our fingerprints off the windows, and cleaned up the tornado messes we'd leave behind wherever we went. And over time she helped us to become more responsible by giving us more to do.

How did I show my mom love in return? 

I let her do all those things, I'd hug her back, tried not to grumble when I was told to do something, and tried not to be a bad kid. I think, if you asked her, she'd say that she liked to feel needed (and I know that sometimes we took advantage of that).

The same can be said for my dad, too.

And recently I've spent a lot of time thinking about love and how it manifests itself here. 

How do you show love? 

How do you receive love? 

How do you feel loved?

It looks so different here and, in many ways, very similar.

Yesterday when church finished one of my neighbors invited me over for Sunday lu (meat/coconut/onions baked in taro leaves and put into the ground to cook). She has 3 children (with a fourth on the way). When I sat down in their house, she sat down next to me and the kids got right to work. The kids! The two oldest boys went out to the 'umu (underground oven) and brought in lunch and served it to us. The 3-year-old girl grabbed a piece of fabric to use as the table on the ground and grabbed plates for us to eat on. And mom? Mom sat and patiently waited. The kids did all the work!

I was talking recently with some friends here who relocated from America in the late 1970s. One of them mentioned that many years ago they adopted a local teenage girl into their family. During her first year living with them the girl was pretty miserable and seemed to be very angry all the time. My friends didn't understand her disposition until one night when one of their Tongan friends was visiting after dinner. The father of the family was doing dishes and the adopted daughter was trying to push him out of the way. When that didn't seem to work, she crossed her arms and stood glaring at him. The father looked to his Tongan friend and asked "Do your daughters treat you this way?" The Tongan man responded, "No. I let them respect me." And it clicked. The way the Tongan girl had been taught to love her family was through helping - she wanted to feel needed. And in feeling needed, she felt love from her new family. As soon as my friend let her have control of the dish washing, laundry, and sweeping, the situation greatly improved.

What I've noticed throughout my time here is that in order to feel loved you need to feel needed. There is a smaller emphasis on words of appreciation and more on acts of service. 

For some of us we feel love when people use their words. For others it's through gift giving, intimacy, or quality time. But what I've noticed here in Tonga is that love is almost always given and received through acts of service and it starts at a very young age.

I think there is something really powerful about paying attention to the people in our lives and the ways in which giving and receiving love change - from culture to culture and from person to person.

"Spread love everywhere you go: first of all in your own home. Give love to your children, to your wife or husband, to a next door neighbor... Let no one ever come to you without leaving better and happier. Be the living expression of God's kindness; kindness in your face, kindness in your eyes, kindness in your smile, kindness in your warm greeting."

- Mother Teresa

1.5+ Years in Tonga

I'm a bit late with this post (about 2 months late ... Let's just blame the chicken-boom-boom chikungunya virus).

If you want to take a look at the highlights from my first year serving in Tonga take a look here and here.

Here are some highlights from the past eight months.

October 2013: After the Class 6 exam wrapped, my students started studying hard for the island-wide Solopani (Abacus) competition). They worked closely with a JICA (Japanese Volunteer) who was serving in Tonga and teaching students how to do math in a way that I had never seen before! My students loved learning about it and at the competition there was even time for teachers to participate (I chose not to because I know nothing about the abacus). It was a wonderful day in Neiafu.

November 2013: Lu is a Tongan staple food. It is made with coconut milk, onions and your meat of choice wrapped up in taro leaves and bananas leaves and then cooked in an underground oven called an umu. For a very long time there has been an annual Peace Corps Lu competition. What makes this day so much fun is that Peace Corps aren't known for cooking amazing lu and it gives us an opportunity to be creative when it comes to the lu we eat so often. It was a great night hanging with Peace Corps and some Tongan friends (and the trophy I won wasn't bad either ;-)). 

December 2013: After nearly a year of planning I helped direct Camp GLOW (Girls Leading Our World) and Camp GROW (Guys Reshaping Our World). It was a week full of learning

January 2014: The 77th and 78th Groups of Tonga Peace Corps Volunteers came together in Tongatapu (the main island of Tonga) for a week of sharing best teaching practices and ideas about our service.

February 2014: My second school year in Tonga started up and the students were so excited to be back in English class. What felt so good was that they actually had retained a little bit of what I had taught them last school year. Their enthusiasm for learning is contagious and it makes it easier to teach them when they are excited about what they're learning.

 March 2014: Teaching continued and with it came more responsibilities for my students. I spent less time talking at them and at the board and more time getting them actively involved in learning English. Through centers and various games we learned about conversation, colors, food, ABCs, and other fun topics!

April 2014: This was a difficult month because I was away from my students and village so long because I was fighting the chikungunya virus. Part of the virus included a pretty gnarly rash that literally took over my body. The bottoms of my feet itched and I looked like I had been hit in the face with a ping pong paddle.

May 2014: With the King's birthday approaching, all the students, teachers, and Ministry of Education officials (Sione is the one in the white with the sweatband!) spent every Friday practicing a giant dance for the King. What is special about the King's birthday this year is that it will be the first time he's celebrated it in Vava'u (the island group where I live) since 2002. The Ministry wants to make it special so we have been practicing a program that doesn't only include dancing, but gift giving, singing and creating the Tongan flag out of red and white clothing. I can't wait to show you the final product in July!

Here's to enjoying the last few months of my service in Tonga.

[virtual] coffee date

Hey there.

Let's imagine that we are spending a few moments together at a little cafe next to the South Pacific Ocean. You've got your warm beverage of choice in a mug while I'm sipping on a cappuccino with extra foam and sitting across from you.

Mmmmm... tasty.

If we were drinking coffee together I would tell you how excited I get (and a lot of the island does) when that orange ferry pulls up with supplies for the week (and mail!). This is what everything from mail to pigs travels on to get here.

If we were drinking coffee together I would tell you how little my students know about the ocean and our affect on it. It was so wonderful to have VEPA (Vava'u Environmental Protection Association) come into school this weekend to talk about coral reefs and rubbish. I found that the students have some idea of what to do with rubbish, but the follow through is what we're working on. I'm hoping they went home and shared the information with their families.

If we were drinking coffee together I would tell you how much I have enjoyed Fridays recently. I've mentioned how we are preparing for the King's visit at the end of June. We've spent an enormous amount of time learning an aerobics/Zumba dance for him and I hope to eventually share with you what it looks like when 1,000 little kids and all their teachers dance together.

If we were drinking coffee together I would tell you how thankful I am for the little things. Like holding super cute babies that look like cabbage patch dolls and pull at my glasses and aren't afraid of the palangi (white person). What a sweet pea this one is.

Hope you enjoyed your coffee.

What's something you'd tell me?

The Legend of Veimomuni Cave

The little village I live in is home to Veimomuni Cave and this morning Ane and I were talking about all the interesting legends and tales found in the Tongan culture.

She reminded me of the story of the 'Ahiohio and Mt. Talau and then asked me if I knew the story behind the freshwater cave that sits a mere two blocks away from my shack.

I told her I didn't know about it.

So we sat down and she shared with me the following:

Once upon a time in Tonga there lived a beautiful girl named Vei with hair that sparkled like the sun. Her home was a freshwater cave and every day she would climb out of the cave, sit beneath a large mango tree on a rock and dry her hair. Because her hair was so beautiful that it could be seen many kilometers away, and because of this it drew the attention of a boy named Muni who worked on a plantation on the tip of a peninsula which had a clear view of the cave. 

Every day the beautiful girl would dry her hair, the boy would watch from afar wondering if he would ever meet her. The girl eventually noticed the boy across the way and she hoped he would not come over to her cave. 

One day after working on his plantation, the boy created a man from sticks and dressed him up in his clothing. He put him on the shore - the same shore that where he stood day after day looking at Vei. He then jumped into the water and swam to the girl, but she thought the boy remained on his side of the water. 

As Muni came out of the water, Vei got very scared. Muni declared his love to Vei, but Vei said "You are a stupid boy. I will give you my cave if you leave me alone." Muni was very surprised to learn that the cave was full of water, but Vei and Muni lived in the cave together for many years. (Veimomuni translates to Vei and Muni).

If you visit the cave today you are encouraged to bring the ugliest rock you can find and throw it into the cave before you go swimming.

THE END.

Now I have no idea why Vei thought Muni was stupid.

Nor do I understand why we need to be throwing ugly rocks.

These are answers I'm still looking for. I'll let you know if I find them.

End of the Year School Celebration

Today our little village celebrated the end of the school year by throwing a celebration for all the students. This is my second end of the school year celebration (wow, that feels weird to say). Today the program included a welcoming speech and prayer by the head pastor of the local Wesleyan Church. The principal ('Atu) got up and spoke and then the littlest students I teach English sang the first verse of Jingle Bells (it took them 2 weeks to learn it - maybe next year we'll add one more verse on?). Then each class came up and sang and each teacher put the students in order from Top Student to Bottom Student. To be honest, it's still as hard as it was last year to see the students put in order of their academic progress so that EVERYONE can see. I know it's a tradition, but it's just so different than what I grew up with and I don't know if I'll ever really understand. I'm trying though! I saw a few tears, but mostly students didn't seem to (visibly) mind if they were the lowest students in their class. Awards and gifts were given to those who were in the Top 3 of each class. Most Improved and Highest Marks in Each Individual Subject were also given. This gave a little variety in terms of who won awards.

Here are some moments caught on film from today:

The Class 6 students made frames from coconut shells. They added way too much glitter for my taste but I think they turned out pretty sweet.

Soni had a special hair-do for the big day.

Class 5 & 6 boys excited for another tutuku'ako (school break).

Kafoatu waiting to go up and sing/

Listening to the opening speech.

Waiting for the program to start.

Kailao // Tongan War Dance

The school year is winding down and culture week (November 18) is right around the corner. My students have started practicing the kailao (Tongan War Dance). The kailao is performed using fohe kailao (the wooden spears) and each one is carved by someone in their family.

 Here is 'Atu (my principal) watching the practice.

 They have so much fun and it's such a great way to end each day.

Here are the Class 5 and 6 kids (who have performed it for the last 3 years). 

If the interwebs are behaving I may even upload a video in a few weeks.

vainga pe. // just playin'.

 While waiting for the Class 6 (Day 2) feast to start on Wednesday I had some time to hang out with some people in my community.

 We laughed and played.

 We had lots of fun (I think I missed the memo about not smiling in this photo).

'Emosi is so handsome!

Playing "Hide and Seek"

Kalo and I waiting for food.

It was a great afternoon and at the feast I had the chance to stand up and thank my entire community for all that they have done to support the Class 6 kids and the school this year. Oh yes. And I made the speech in Tongan. It felt so good!

The Class 6 Test - Day 1

Today was an important day in Tonga.

It represents what we (and our students) have been working towards all year.

Today my oldest students took the Class 6 Test. 

Like I've talked about in other posts this test is even more intense than standardized testing in America. It determines what secondary schools students will earn admission into. The secondary school many times determines whether or not you will go abroad for university/college or any sort of post-secondary. And this is all decided when you are 11-years-old. Talk about intense.

But my students did awesome. I reminded them last week to make sure that they were drinking plenty of water, getting a good night's sleep and eating lots of fruits and vegetables (not root crop... but green veggies!). 

So today dawned and at about 8am the first Class 6 students arrived at school. The rest of the students in the school were told to stay home for the next couple days. This will give the Class 6 students plenty of quiet time to concentrate on doing their best on the exams. 

The proctors of the exams are principals and veteran teachers from other schools across the island. The thought is that this will cut down on cheating. The Ministry of Education stopped by this morning and dropped off the examinations. Today's tests? English and Science.

When the test started I asked one of my fellow teachers what I should be doing while they were taking the test (since I'm not allowed in the room). They motioned to my classroom and said "go and sit in there". I walked to my classroom door to find that all of the tables were taken out and that I was being recruited (unbeknownst to me) to serve kava to all of the men who had a child currently taking the test. Sweet deal. So I did some leg stretches, said a big malo e lelei (hello) to the men and sat down. The town officer handed me a giant cake with frosting and sprinkles and told me that that was my payment for serving kava. Thank you, Alavini. Then I spent the next 3 hours serving kava to the ministers, the town officer, a fellow teacher, the dads and the grandpas of the children taking the test. 

Discussing the tests and what's been going on in the village.

Chatting away.

My view from the kava bowl - the cups are made from coconut shells and the bowl is carved from wood

The conversation was interesting - topics ranged from talking about the tests, to rugby, even to my marital status. At one point an older gentlemen (who had a grandson taking the test) inquired about my age. I replied with "29" and he said, "Really? I'm only 28. We should get married. You like younger men, right?" All the men started laughing, throwing their heads back in the air. Not only was this man probably close to 70 years old, but he also has a wife. The men then encouraged me to up my efforts and find someone to marry right here in my village because it would make me less homesick (I'm not), a better Tongan speaker (ok, maybe) and cause me and to gain weight (Just what I've always wanted).

When men want kava they will clap. You continue stirring the kava until everybody has been served.

The town officer - Alavini - is in the center of the picture.

So after 3 hours of kava and va'e ma'mate (dead legs), I excused myself and went and sat with Ane (my counterpart) and talked with her about the test. We went over the English portion and found that what I had been teaching all year was right on par with what appeared on the exam. Fist pump. It was such a good feeling. When lunchtime rolled around Kalo (Caroline) a little 2-year-old cutie patootie in the village found me and wouldn't let me put her down. We split a nesi (cross between a pear and an apple) and just hung out. Every time I  walked across the school yard to talk to somebody else she would come running at me with her arms spread wide and jump into my arms. I love little kids and their enthusiasm. Hugs are nice too!

Tonight my village will feast to celebrate the end of Day 1. Tomorrow the students will take their Maths (they add the "s" here) and Tongan Language tests.

The Story of Mt. Talau

This might be my most favorite Tongan tale yet.

Here it goes.

There is a "mountain" (I use quotes because I don't consider it a mountain, even though Tongans do) in Neiafu called Mt. Talau (pronounced: Tah-la-ow). 

What is unique about this landmark is how flat the top is.

Mt. Talau is right above the red flowers in this picture.

See? Pretty flat right?

Anyway, apparently Mt. Talau wasn't always flat and that's the story I am here to tell you today.

(Mom, turn off Criminal Minds and devote your full attention to this... it's pretty good stuff)

Once upon a time the Tongan Gods started bragging about how they had the highest mountains in the entire South Pacific. They were proud and wanted to let everyone know about the beauty of their island nation. However, the Samoan Gods disagreed.

In fact, the Samoan Gods were mighty upset that the Tonga would claim such a title so in the middle of a moonless night a Samoan God came to Vava'u and found Mt. Talau.

He began sawing the top of Mt. Talau off, but was not quiet enough.

He woke up a Tongan God who was not very happy. But by this point the Samoan God had already lifted the top of Mt. Talau from its perch and was carrying it over the water.

One of the Tongan gods heard him and remembered a unique and important fact about Samoan Gods: they hate sunlight because it causes them to turn to stone, so they only come out at night.

So the Tongan God did the only thing he could think of... he dropped his pants and mooned the Samoan God. With the Tongan's butt high in the air, the Samoan God became so frightened (thinking that he had come into contact with the sun) that he dropped the top of Mt. Talau in the water creating a new island.

This island is still around today and is known as Lotuma (pronounced Low-two-ma).

The End. 

And now you know.

My Sunday Morning

The congregation is listening intently as Laumanu is standing in the pulpit. Barely five and a half feet tall, she is just able to peek her head over the top of the wooden stand which cradles her bible. Even though I still only understand a small portion of what she is saying, what draws me to listen is the manner in which she speaks - passionately, directly. The trade winds rustle the leaves of the coconut trees and within the pauses of Laumanu's reading of the first lesson, I can hear the birds outside as they greet the day.  

 

I look down at my hymnal. I know I should be following along, but I have no idea where to even begin to look. Instead I carefully trace the faded gold lettering on top of the small blue book sitting in my lap. It's then that I feel someone's gaze directed my way. 3-year-old Mele is smiling at me from across the aisle. She and I don't have to say anything; with a quick arch of my eyebrows (a movement that translates to "yes"), she scurries across the walkway and jumps into my lap. She grabs the hymnal, opens it and starts pointing to words - grazing her finger from one song to the next attempting to whisper read though it's still so confusing to the both of us. She grabs my hand and I squeeze her a little tighter. Resting her head on my shoulder, she smiles as she plays with the bracelets on my wrist. Her two-year-old cousin waddles down the pew and starts to play with my hair - delicately touching the plumeria blossom I found on the road on the way to church this morning.  Mele and her cousin spend the rest of the hour with me. The final prayer is spoken, the congregation makes moves to exit, the girls giggle, smile and wave goodbye as they skip down the road hand in hand.

It's juicy moments like these where I realize how special it is to be here. That I am a part of this community and they are a part of me...and long after I leave this place will continue to be.

Agriculture Fair [1]

 Saturday was a big day in Vava'u. For the first time in five years the Vava'u Agriculture Fair was put on. In many ways the fair reminded me of my childhood summer days spent at the Dane County Fair. 1997 was a good year for me at the DCF. I won an Award of Merit for an oil painting of a sunflower. Highfiveself!
Alright, back to Vava'u.
Activities, Animals, Food. Awards were presented for the most good looking root crop, the largest pumpkin, the best kava, the best vanilla. Food was plentiful. Handicrafts were too. I worked with the Vava'u Tourist Association for a few hours and painted the faces of many smiling Tongan children (and a few adults, too!).

Oh yes. And there were fish. Which makes a little bit of sense since we are surrounded by the South Pacific Ocean. This guy was especially large and especially funny-looking. 

There was a lot of sitting throughout the day. There was a lot of praying, singing, listening, and praying... and more praying. There was a special presentation for a special guest who came in on a ferry on Friday. The special guest was...

The King. 

Yep.

You read that right.

King Tupou VI (Sixth).

He and his team of security guards walked around to every booth. He seemed like a really friendly guy and even smiled at me when he passed me.

I will be back soon with more from the Agriculture Fair.