Big News: Site Announcement Time

One of the biggest days for every Peace Corps Trainee is the day when they find out their home for the next two years. I'm not talking about the country (at this point it's pretty obvious where I'll be living), but the specific post in which I will stay. It's about finding out your new home. It's about figuring out what community you really get to be a part of, where some of the most important relationships I will make will happen. And while homestay is a great way to be introduced to the culture and the language, this day marks a shift. The training-wheels are being taken off. 8 weeks of language school, cross-cultural studies, technical training and Peace Corps logistics, lead to this.

Today was special. It didn't start off that way, though. It began just as every other day has for the last few weeks: Mark, Alissa and I did our normal Fatumu-Lavengatonga run and then I ate breakfast with Una. At 8:30 we headed to Ha'asini for more training. This time, training sessions included Safety and Security (we learned about the Tongan legal system - I can't mess up) and Sexual Health (which reminded me a lot of human growth and development in middle school - there was a magic banana... I'm not going to go into specifics, but there was a lot of giggling.). Then our Country Director and Program Manager took the stage and set a box in front of everyone. This box, we would soon learn, held our future. One by one we were asked to go up, choose a piece of paper out of the box and read the name and location on the paper. Here is my friend Harrison revealing my location:

So, while I've enjoyed living in the tiny village of Fatumu for the last 7 weeks and will miss my homestay family deeply when I leave (who will eat crab with me for breakfast?), my new home will be an 18-hour ferry ride away on...

the vava'u island group

Due to Peace Corps regulations, I am not allowed to tell you the exact name of the village or school, but since I have to put a name to everything I am going to tell you that I am working in the village, 'Ofa (meaning Love) in the Lelei Government Primary School (Lelei means happy). So from here on out that's how I will refer to those two things. I am very excited because this site was one of my top choices. It all just got real.

Wordless Wednesday: Hina Cave and Fire Dancers

  

  

  

  

  

  

The Stars Are Brightly Shining

As I hung out doing some reading before bed this evening, I heard singing in the other room. Convinced that my ears were deceiving me... that there was no possible way that this was real life... I put my book down and listened carefully. And you know what? My ears were doing their job, this wasn't a joke ... Tongan TV was actually playing "O Holy Night". I nearly sprinted out of bed and dashed into the living room, perched myself "criss-cross-apple-sauce" style in front of the TV. The TV that - only occasionally - gets a signal and watched as Mariah Carey and a lively church choir belted out one of my favorite yuletide tunes. Thinking that maybe this was just a fluke - I am aware that late night TV programming is unique, I waited. The next song was the "12 Days of Christmas". I'm not sure if you know it or not, but IT'S OCTOBER 16TH. No where in my Peace Corps application was there a box to check "enjoys prematurely celebrating holidays involving a baby lying in a manger, decorating trees and listening to old men sing about natural weather occurrences involving frost", but if there was I would have put a big 'ole "x" in it. And yet somehow they got it right. Thank you, Peace Corps. Every day I love Tonga more. It's like I am meant to be here. I've never met anyone who celebrates Christmas this early and now I have found an entire country that does. FIST PUMP. This must be another reason why Tongans are all so happy. They spend nearly 25 percent of every year celebrating Christmas. And I'm totally going to join them. I may not be walking in a "winter wonderland" in December, but I'll be celebrating big time. Tomorrow I may even attempt to make a Christmas wreath out of coconut leaves. Too early? Nah. Now if only I had some Christmas lights...Hint. Hint.

Pirates of the Caribbean and Caves

This past Saturday my host mother Una (who is wearing the hat in the picture below) took a group of us (palangis) to the next village to visit an underground cave. The only of its kind in Tonga, this cave has a natural freshwater swimming pool at the bottom. Since the generator was broken, the entire thing was lit by candlelight.

When we reached the bottom of the cave, we were able to swim. The water felt so good as the heat that day was especially unbearable. This is something I need to get use to. Unlike America, Tonga is moving into the Wet/Hot season meaning that December will no longer be filled with Bing-Crosby-esque snow scenes. Instead it will be in the 90s and humid - so more like Florida in July. Anyway, back to the story.

The entire time I was in the cave I felt like I was an extra in a Johnny Depp "Pirates of the Caribbean" film. It was unreal. You'll note that we are all wearing shirts while we are swimming. Tongan culture forbids women from wearing swimsuits on the beach (unless you are at a resort and let's be real ... I'm in the Peace Corps so I don't think I'll be frequenting one of those anytime soon) so t-shirts it is. I did wear my swimsuit underneath the tie-dye.

There was cliff jumping and lots of balancing on rocks. It felt very much like something I would have done with my friends at camp (If any of you are reading this, I miss you and this would have been the coolest day-off activity ever!).

Here I am with my Peace Corps friends, Katy and Chiara, who came from Nakolo (3 villages over) to go exploring with me!

Another sweet picture. Are these stalagmites or stalagtites? Is that even how you spell those words? Anybody know? I can't remember. My 7th grade science knowledge is MIA right now.

After a nice swim in the cave, we made our way out to the beach to warm back up. There the water was warmer than what I shower with. It was crazy. And by crazy I mean wonderful. I was dry in 3.2 seconds and had time to head back to Fatumu to talk with Una and eat mangoes. We are heading into mango season here and I couldn't be more excited.

Hope you had a fabulous Saturday too!

Sunday Feast: Making Lu

Long before the sun rises and the first rooster crows, one of the men in my host family is outside preparing the 'umu for our Sunday feast. The smell - a mixture of earth and burning leaves - drifts towards my open window. My alarm clock is not set to go off for another few hours, but the village roosters have started their day and suggest, ever so kindly, that I start mine. The mosquitoes spent yesterday feasting on my exposed legs - using the backs of my knees as their own personal buffet line. If my legs were the sky - the mosquitoes left their mark in the form of red constellations, with the big dipper being on my upper right thigh. Even though I'm itching and cautiously scanning the area underneath my mosquito net for giant centipedes and lizards, I am happy. I slide out from underneath my cloud of safety eyeing a giant wasp that has found its untimely end in my billowy protector. I throw a floral skirt on over my shorts and walk out of my room.

Traditional Tongan singing is coming softly from the radio as the first rays of sun creep into the room casting their shadows on the cement floor. A symphony of pots and pans clank and clunk in the other room. I know they are being filled with kumala (rich purple sweet potatoes) and the sound lures me into the kitchen. The table is covered in lush, leathery green leaves which were picked yesterday.

The sun has yet to find the kitchen as it's location is kept cool and safe under a canopy of trees at the back of the house. The backdoor is open and frames the silhouettes of two puppies waiting patiently for leftovers. Una has taken command of the stove and making sure that the propane tank on the floor is connected properly, she goes to work cutting up lesi momoho - fresh papaya. Later, this will be served after being cooked for hours in coconut creme - Tonga's version of ice cream. Sela, who is expecting her first baby, is seated at the table cutting up fresh chicken. The women are quietly talking and laughing in their native language.

I find an open seat at the table and attempt to add to the conversation in my broken Tongan and when I'm finished I ask Sela if I can watch her make the lu. This is a favorite part of my Sunday. Part art - part Polynesian Food Network Channel - I watch as she and Una carefully prepare our Sunday feast.

In Tonga, every Sunday feels like Thanksgiving. The amount of preparation needed for this meal is extensive. Yet even though it is done every week, each feast is special. Here are some images from today's food preparation.

This is the fish that one of our neighbors caught and gave to us. We made ota ika with it (raw fish, tomatoes, green peppers and coconut creme).

The chicken sitting on taro and lu leaves.

I got momentarily distracted by the wildlife. My backyard is cooler than the zoo.

Lu is made with coconut creme - fresh from the coconut.

First, the chicken is wrapped in the lu leaves.

Next you make a bowl out of the lu leaves.

Pour in some coconut creme.

Wrap the lu leaves in giant taro leaves.

Making sure that no creme seeps out, wrap the contents like a Christmas present.

Almost there...

Keep folding...

Then take a reed and tie the package closed.

Now it's ready to go in the 'umu (underground oven)!

A Look Back at the Taolunga

If you ever find yourself in Tonga and are interested in performing the Traditional Tongan Dance, here is a step by step guide to making sure you're semi-successful in your endeavor.

How to Successfully Prepare and Perform a Taolunga

First things first, make sure that you are wearing mahi (underwear). Sometimes the dresses are a little see-through. I wore a tank top and basketball shorts, too. Una Lahi is tying me into the dress here.



Una Lahi's mother-in-law is making sure that my belt (kiekie) is tied on tight. I am slightly smaller than the average Tongan woman.



Then stop for a quick break and get your picture taken with as many village women as possible. They will ask for it.



Someone will then grab some leaves from a plant outside and tie them to your wrists and ankles. If you taolunga you must have bracelets and anklets on!



Then, with your entourage, walk over to the Kava Hall (or wherever you are going to dance). Right before showtime the village women will lather you up with baby oil. This is so that the money you earn while you are dancing will stick. On Friday we were earning money for the Free Wesleyan Church's Youth Group.



Before you go on stage, the Tongan village men will ask for a picture with the taolunga.



Then dance away!

 

After you're finished, celebrate with more pictures!

 

Dogs in Tonga - Meet Franseen

On Saturday morning I woke up early to head to Nuku'alofa on the pasi (bus) and opened the front door to a pile of puppies. The cutest most roly-poly little guys I've ever laid eyes on. I picked one up - the smallest of the group. A round little puff of white and brown, she immediately fell asleep in my arms. I was running late so I put her gently back into the pile and hurried to catch the bus (Remember from my last post that they don't stop at a regular bus stop?). When I returned in the afternoon I asked Una where she put the puppies. The response I got was "Mandy, they're lost." Huhhhhh? How do you lose puppies?

Since dogs have a unique (to me, at least) role in Tonga I was concerned that "lost" may have been code for "dead". I should explain that last sentence. Here in Tonga dogs are everywhere and they have 1 of 3 roles:

1. Guard Dog. Some dogs are kept outside of homes so that if unwanted guests are around they will run them off. Crime is very low in Tonga and part of me thinks that this might help with that - there are some mean dogs that walk the streets of Fatumu. Sometimes I use Una as my bodyguard.

2. Pet. This is a rarity. I have never seen or heard of an indoor dog in Tonga.

3. Neighborhood Annoyance. Because dogs are rarely spayed or neutered (spelling?) here there is an over population of dogs in every village I have been in. They are treated like rats - taught to fend for themselves. They are not fed unless they find their own food. We have about 7 dogs that hang around our house ... only two have names because they belong to category 1. (Kooti - which sounds like the dog has kooties and Lassy who is just mean).

Back to Saturday... I was bummed to find out that the puppies disappeared, but continued on with my weekend. Monday came and when I returned from school Una was waiting for me with a surprise. She had found the puppies and our family got to keep one - the one that I had picked up on Saturday. The runt of the litter. And what's even more special is that they gave me the honor of naming her. (They told me that this would be a good way to remember me when I'm gone because they'll miss me). So without further ado, I give you:

Franseen 'Ofa Tauki'uvea

(Franny for short - and 'Ofa translates to "Love" in Tongan)   

Do you remember the children's book character, Franseen? (She was in the Arthur, the Ardvark books?) Anyway, that's where I got it from and here are a few pictures of me and my new best friend.